Or Shade vs Gray Shade
| I had been using single digit numbers for Shade and lamented that many images were too dark to use Shade, until I read in a post somewhere that double digits like 40x40 worked well. I tried it and liked it a lot because the changes seemed of a wider variety & more gradual. I usally use anywhere from 20x20 (Dark) to 60x60 (Lighter). Then Patty suggested using 30x30 shade and then 5x5 sharpen to get a nice colored embossed look. That was a great turn on! |
Shortly after that there was a buzz in the imaging NGs about MsLauraLou's Technique which produced a colored embossed effect w/some images. After searching all the posts, This is what I found:
hue: 20% 3 times
negated
normalized 2 times
shaded 110%
hue 20%
and then framed it.
I don't think that I ever really tried it with the Hues, but this is what I came away with:
Patty's suggestion works great but using a 110% Shade, when the image is not already too dark, seems even more extreme,. I started using 110% and then sharpen. If the 110% is too dark after adding sharpen, I go back and try 40x40 or 50x50. The results are very similar to a Comp/Multiplied Emboss, as you will see below.
Update 2-4-03
110% Shade is not working the same as it did when I made this tute. It now turns an image almost completely black. The closest substitute I know is 25x25 to 30x30
Gray Shade emboss is also different these days. Substitute 30x30 for the 1000 to 1200 in the examples below. The larger numbers are now producing extremely dark effects.
Then I discovered, that similar emboss effects can also be produced using Shade and Normalize, the difference being that the more times I repeat the process the more texture developes, sometimes where & how I wouldn't necessarily expect. Too many times on a face and it starts looking more pock-marked than Tommy Lee Jones. Normalize can be such a lightener that I can get away with a 110% Shade even on a dark image. What I had originally thought of as a Lazy Emboss is sometimes my preferred method.
Examples to follow.
I'll be using the following image for all my examples.
Original #1 #2 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13
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Shade/Sharpen
I'll start with the Shade/Sharpen which is the fastest method. On a light image a 110% Shade may be enough.
Shade 110%
Sharpen 3x3Shade 110%
Sharpen 7x7
#3
Shade 110%
Sharpen 15x100
About Sharpen
I believe it was Tasker that suggested trying the 15x100 Sharpen. IM won't always oblige but I like it at times because it seems to have a more subtle intensity than say, a 5x5. Other times I totally love the radical effect of a 8x8 Sharpen. The problem with using high numbers with sharpen is you sometimes lose some color. What I'm trying to do is achieve some bright highlights without losing too much color. This image has such a great depth of color I can get away with a lot. If I was just trying to somewhat sharpen a photo image I would start with 0.0x1.0 and experiment from there.
The Shade/Normalize Method
This combination can be much more intense, even to the point of distortion. With some images I'll get totally weird and repeat the process 3 to 5 times. Here are some examples
Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%
Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%
Sharpen 15x100Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%, Normalize
Shade 110%
Unsharp 2.0x1.0+0.9+0.05
The Unsharpen effect is still a new toy for me so all I can say is, "Experiment". The default coords are 0.0x1.0+1.0+0.05
(radius x sigma + amount + threshold)
The IM glossary says "radius should be higher than sigma", don't ask me why it's lower in the default coords. Go easy on the "Amount" number. It can make things pretty radical. Like all the Sharpen effects, it robs a bit of color depending on how high you go. That's all I got to say about that.... for now.
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Gray Shade
Formerly Known As Emboss
Just for the sake of comparison I've added these images using Gray Shade & Composite/Multiply
Gray Shade 1200%
Comp/Multiply
Gray Shade 1200%
Comp/Multiply, Sharpen 15x100
...And adding Level to the mix
Gray Shade 1200%
Level 8/.3/40000
Comp/MultiplyGray Shade 1200%
Level 8/.3/40000
Comp/Multiply
Sharpen 15x100
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The New Emboss
This Effect is still very new to me. It looks almost like a cross between Edge Detect, Emboss, and Gaussian Blur depending on what #s are used. I just had to add the next 2 images for further comparison
Emboss 0.0x1.0
Level 8/0.3/50000Emboss 0.0x1.0
Level 8/0.3/50000
Sharpen 15x100
There's an impressive difference using this new color emboss. Like Gray Shade Emboss, it is enhanced by using Normalize before and Level afterwards. I'm working on a page of examples with different coords just so I can get some idea of just what coords do what. Coords like 3x3, 6x6 & 9x9 have a distinctly blur/spread appearence. 0.0x0.5 is more extreme than 0.0x1.0, 1.0x3.0 thru 1.0x9.0 creates an extreme emboss w/distortion and looks quite edge detected, while 0.0x3.0 or 0.0x8.0 is softer & less distorted. ???
At this point I'm just dancing in the dark.
So far what I've noticed is it's beautiful used with landscapes but I find a lot of distortion when I try to use a face. I have a lot of experimenting do do with this one. I can hardly wait to see the discoveries of others using this new effect. I just love new toys. Thank You again Mr. Cristy!!!
...And Thank You Patty for opening this door for me.
~by Stranjer
Related Pages...More ways to get weird at IM
...but first, the fine print
Warning: My tutorials are experimental works in progress. I will add to them as I learn more about the combinations of effects I am trying to describe and try to refine my techniques and explanations, There are two other factors that are important here.
1. All images are NOT created equal. What works with one, may not work with another.
2. Things change at Image Magick from time to time, sometimes radically. I try to keep these pages updated.
Color Wrapping Images
Enhancing Gray Shade (Emboss)
Mock Emboss
Equalize Experiments
Using Level
Using Chop
remove interior areas
Making BGs at IM
for Classic and Plus units