The objective is to have the barreled action position itself properly in the stock so that later, when the bedding epoxy is setting up, an absolutely perfect fit between the hard epoxy and receiver is done.
Use Simonize car wax as an epoxy release agent. Smear a thin coat all over the receiver and barrel, then smooth it up by polishing it just like you would your car. The very thin film left will make the epoxy-to-metal contact perfect. And put wax on the stock screws, too; in the thread area as well as on the body of the screws. I suggest going to your hardware/gun store and getting a couple of correct thread socket-head screws of a length to fit your rifle. These will be much easier to remove after the epoxy has hardened with their hexagonal socket. If they're a quarter-inch longer than the stock screws, that's about perfect. Wrap enough masking tape on the screws next to their heads to hold them in their respective stock holes. This lets you put 'em in place before your pour in the bedding epoxy. Put the stock screws in the stock. A trial fit of metal to wood will tell you if all fits properly.
Get some Dev-Con Plastic Steel from your local hardware store at about $3.65 per two-tube kit; Buy three kits. Mix the epoxy and hardener together in a plastic container. Mix it very well; you have plenty of time, like two hours before it starts to get just a little bit hard.
Position the stock firmly in a padded vice so the stock screws can be later tightened from the bottom. Then put a dam of clay in front of the recoil lug area so the epoxy won't flow under the barrel. If you are satisfied with everything at this point, pour in the epoxy around the receiver area. Use a toothpick to be sure the epoxy gets into all the nooks and crannies; being careful not to damage the modeling clay you put in the stock.